79 you have seen before

Fedex just dropped off few boxes this morning. All new weatherstripping for the doors and trunk.

[img][/img]

And some LEDs to brighten up my day!

What a PITA to clean this dash mainly a large screwdriver and a flat scapper\razor. I plan to patch all the holes with sheet

metal and then fill the top with metal filler till I get it smooth. The idea is to take the height of the dash down about 1/2"

hopefully... I have done some panels in the past with a fiberglass filler but given the heat and metal surface available I will

use the aluminum filled stuff. The cost should be way less than finding a new dash and those "dash caps" seem counter

productive as it seems to me these early B-body dashes are high enough as it is let alone another 1/2in !

I have this available if you change your mind.  It's in perfect condition.

I might consider that it looks good. Have you ever tried the vinyl spray dye on any vinyl like that I haven't. I am

pretty sure paint wouldn't go over too well(Had bad experience with that some time ago )  but not sure about the dye?

This stuff here

https://www.duplicolor.com/products/vinylFabricCoating/

I sprayed all the armrests in your car, but it was more of an experiment than anything because they're chalky. What I wound up doing was going to an auto paint store and having the color custom mixed for me.

The most important things are starting with parts in good condition, and preparation. Make sure to use a vinyl or plastic adhesion promoter like this: http://dixiemontecarlo.com/Product/Detail.aspx?s=DM00184&d=180&p=1

Although Duplicolor makes a good product, they don't make the correct light blue or anything close to it. Neither does SEM or any others. I tried them all on the armrests in your car. Check with Dixie Monte Carlo though, http://dixiemontecarlo.com . A friend was in contact with them about making the correct light blue for us. It'll be sold as a monte carlo paint color for 78? MCs. Sorry but I don't remember the color code.

Yeah, as long as the prep is done right it's easy to change plastic and vinyl colors.

My rear lights all came out great the LEDs are very bright .This pic doesn't even grab the brightness of the reverse lights they are
white 68smd LEDs the brake\turn are 68 too but not as bright in red as white. Although they are all way brighter than stock.







Still working on some issues with the front but I'll get there.

PS I got there. For some reason front was PITA but it worked out I used some 45smd in the bumper and 19smd for the

marker\corner they look ok but the bumper lenses are a little fogged from age might look into new ones.

New Headlights with new connectors these are not sealed beam they use 9005/9006 bulbs.

I haven't installed the Xenon Lows yet I am waiting for motor swap and

new alternator(I have alternator but don't want to bother to put on this 305 it's going one way or the other out the

bottom or through Hood!)

See this block here next to the brake booster anyone ever replace this or know if you can get them?




Specifics on the parts here are few pics



The headlights are ok for 20.00 shipped a pair I did get one that had a leak issue I got a replacements and have no

problems. I haven't hooked up the LEDs in the light not sure I will ha but the lights again aren't bad they are glass not

plastic and came with halogen bulbs that work pretty well.



These bulbs were $6 pair and are the reverse lights and again very bright.

These resistors work ok and for 16 shipped from China for 10 quite a deal albeit a little risky. Sometimes

buying straight from China is worth it for things like this.

WellI finally have engine and transmission lined up for the Imp. The power will be that torque monster of the GM world Oldsmobile

455. Found a vintage 1968 455 and Th400 to go with it. It being 68' (Good heads and compression) should make it more than

enough for myself with just intake\exhuast maybe new distributor. These are such an easy swap it's silly the Olds B bodies had

oldsmobile and 403s all same mount as the 455 just skinnier and shorter. My only isssue is the transmission as in the cross

member just need a good welder to fab me one.(Lined that up too). Hoping to get in by begining of next month and running

good. It came from a 68 Delta 88 that a friend pulled and said it purred before it was pulled.(Even has the Rocket 455 Air cleaner)

I am hoping to only replace accessories, oilpan, gaskets, ignition, exhaust and manifold(Aluminum Edelbrock or Weiand?)) ,

carb and then run it. Heads would be nice but I need a sane budget lol. And I still have to get a rearend (Prett sure Im going to

grab a low miles Roadmaster 10 bolt 8.5 for now and rebuild it later with Posi).

Cool, sounds like a plan. When i did my full led conversion i didnt have to use any load resistors. For the turn signals i got an electronic flasher, i had the problem of the lights in the dash staying on all the time, so switched those back to the old 194 bulbs and problem solved, i did have leds in the red warning lights like the battery, seatbelt, overheating lights, but those also stayed lit all the time so had to also put the old bulbs back in, other than that everything else is led, and i love them.

I had a bear of a time with the front turn signals (bumper) till I realized the sockets were kaput. The interior lighting really is fantastic

to me the dome in the interior and trunk are very bright for such little bulbs. I have not done anything with my dash but I intend to

pull it and do a custom dash completely as it's the one part of this car I do not care for. never liked thos old style speedos when

they are limited to 85, 120 ok but 85 nah. Reminds me too much of the old 55mph speed limit lol I guess GM didn't get a chance to

highlight 55 by 79'.(although I use to ride in a 79 ford that did)

Yeah they definitely skimped in the speedo department, i like the optional gauge package that some came with, but again limited to 85, and no tach offered.

Those LED tail lights look great! I might do that when I get to that point. You can't go wrong with a 455 Olds. Those are strong, fast, and easy to maintain. A buddy of mine has a real '68 Hurst Olds with the 455 and that thing is ridiculously fast with a lot of torque. What letter heads are on your 455?

I don't have access to it yet it's in a local garage I will next week. It's a 2bbl but has 10.25:1 Compression( I read that all red 455s have that for the 68 year the 9.0:1 is not red this is ) I'm assuming C heads which are good if not great. My neighbor drove the car once it was a 68' Delta 88 that was scrapped and he said the motor was quiet and had immense torque. I'd imagine that's true 1968 Olds 2bbl rated gross 320hp and 490 ft\lbs torque that has to be over 200hp\350 ft\lbs at the wheels or close to it.


I have a poser I just pulled my dash for several reasons and there is metal round piece at the end or three wires that states 4c 130w
Getting old I swear I knew what it was or someone told me I can't remember but the 130w gets me nervous that and the size of the wire? I tried googling but without a reference I get nowhere.

Turns out a 68' th400 is more of a problem from a full size then it's worth they are very long and do not have a gear input for the

speedometer(They used the front wheel I guess). I am considering probably going to pick up a BOP th350 and have it built for the

455 it would simplify the whole process. Although with the rear I am fairing better I have come across someone who says they can

put a 9" Ford rear with whatever gear I want for cheap.4.11:1 ooh well maybe 3.73s even 3.55s lol I checked this 7.5 rear I came up

with 2.42s! Damn even this old 305 would scream with 3.73s lol.

I was reading that 1le Camaro Brakes (80s) will bolt to 9c1 spindles offering 12" brakes with 4.75 Bolt circle?

GM parts direct has spindles and Rock Auto has the rest has anyone tried this?


How about these arms and notice how many GM cars fit the same part.Granted these are slightly adjustable but...

http://www.andysautosport.com/products/spc__94378.html


SPC Lower Tubular Arms

Fits: 70-81 Camaro 'F' Body RWD, 70-81 Firebird 'F' Body RWD, 71-76 Bonneville 'B' Body RWD, 71-76 LeSabre 'B' Body RWD, 71-77 88 'B' Body RWD, 73-75 Grand Am 'A' Body RWD, 73-77 Caprice 'B' Body RWD, 73-77 Century 'A' Body RWD, 73-77 Cutlass, Supreme 'A' Body RWD, 73-77 El Camino 'A' Body RWD, 73-77 Grand Prix 'A' Body RWD, 73-77 Impala 'B' Body RWD, 73-77 LeMans 'A' Body RWD, 73-77 Malibu 'A' Body RWD, 73-77 Monte Carlo 'A' Body RWD, 73-77 Regal 'A' Body RWD, 75-79 Nova 'X' Body RWD, 75-79 Omega 'X' Body RWD, 75-79 Skylark 'X' Body RWD, 77-81 Bonneville 'B' Body RWD, 78-82 88 'B' Body RWD, 78-96 Caprice 'B' Body RWD, 78-96 Impala 'B' Body RWD

PART# 94378

I ordered some Raybestos Front Lower Professional Control Arms and Upper Moogs (I want the best just a little cheaper if I can get

it)  Some new bumps to go with them. Hopefully this will get done by the weekend coming.(yeah right the weekend after next

weekend likely). Lot to do have to chase down a rear and tranny this week (DId that come out the way I think it didt?)

I'm looking for 2004r or 700r4 cheap if possible otherwise I may just buy a gps sending unit and use that speedo gearless th400.

Did you get the S10 bump stops like in the article I posted?

If you're doing the swap, it'd be cool to see it written-up here with lots of pics!

Myloth wrote:I was reading that 1le Camaro Brakes (80s) will bolt to 9c1 spindles offering 12" brakes with 4.75 Bolt circle?

GM parts direct has spindles and Rock Auto has the rest has anyone tried this?

You may have trouble getting 15" rims to fit over the 1LE brakes. The Camaros with 1LE brakes came stock with 16" wheels with the rear wheels being offset. 15s won't fit those directly.

There seems to be conflict whether they do or don't the rotor itself is 11 55/64" according to ac delco.More research needed ...sigh

I do know these fit and aill be going on next week

http://southsidemachineperformance.com/products/copy-of-adjustable-control-arm-kit-gm-b-body-1978-1996-with-solid-lower-bushings

They are not solid bushings if you go to the link they are poly and Mack at SouthSide had some great informtation and was very

helpful. These are the bushings for the uppers that go into the Rearend

http://www.ebay.com/itm/400682701746

Same goes for the 94-96 impala ss or 9c1, they also use front 12inch rotors but are technically 11.8inch rotors, and i believe those use or can use the same calipers that all the 11inch rotors came with. But I know the ss has 17 inch rims, but i was thinking the 9c1's used 15s?? not sure. Now the rear rotors are 11.6inches which is what i got on mine, and my 15inch rim fits perfect, theres about a 1/2inch to 3/4inch of room from the top of the caliper to the rim its self, and im using american racing outlaw 2's.

Interesting still a dilemma on the almost 12" rotor It must entirely depend on the backspacing whether they

squeeze. If I had to got to bigger rims I think 18s or so and go with 13" brakes but that is for another day for

sure. If I can get better braking on the rear with the 11.6s and leave the front till next spring that could work for me.

The rear drums are the smaller(9.5?) and very weak ones. Oh now that I am thinking of it the 63' Riviera I had

came with 12" Aluminum Drums (good stuff) and the wheels were 15s now the front and back were stock steel maybe

special rim though but I fit 265/50/15s on the back pretty well so they had to be wider (8"?) than the standard 6-6.5"

width of the early 60s.

These look great and are not light as they look very solid arms. That irregularity around the bushing is actually a plastic

cover that was trimmed a tad off not the bushing.

Those are some nice looking pieces!  Are the lowers stock or extended length?
BTW, the 9C1 LCAs currently on your car have very little mileage on them. They were installed along with the sway bar back in '09 but I only put about 700 miles on the car before I sold it in '13. They might be worth saving for a future project.
Here's a pic of them the day they were installed.

These lowers are stock I only wanted the upper adjustable as I am swapping rears and it maybe a 9" ford not sure yet.

I figure I might need a little wiggle room.


I did notice that the lowers looked like 9c1s and were fairly fresh don't worry I had not intention of scrapping them lol but I do

appreciated that. SouthSide said while the 9c1s are stiffer than stock these are fully boxed and even stiffer. And

the SouthSide uppers are in a different category altogether than the stock Upper.

In the future I may invest in some airbags for the springs for track time that's what I did in the past preload one spring.