350 won't start

I was racing down the freeway and the car stalled since my gas gauge is stuck
Coasted to the gas station across the street put some gas it started right up
Made a hard u turn to get the gas station and it stalled I started it up again stepped on the gas and stalled again rolled it to the station filled it up and didn't wanna start.
The car isn't getting spark I put gas down the carb and nothing
I have a accel distributor (1 1/2years old) replaced the coil and thing about the control module.
The rotor spins with the motor and I got 12v at the distributor
And help is appreciated

Does anybody know if I can test my ingnition control module
Also no spart from the cables but gets 12v at the BAT wire and TACH wire to distributor
I replaced the rotor button with another I had because it looked worn
I already replaced the coil with no luck looking to buy a ignition control module

I will note that the TACH&BAT connections on the front/outer part of the distributor had 12v with key in run didn't check while cranking though BUT the TACH wire had voltage but looked like a single thin wire holding it on , looks work was thinking bout redoing the connection.
Also there was no spark at all put a flat head in the wire and nothing not even a tiny flash(was gonna hold the wire and crank it to make sure no spark but wussed out)
The connector that goes to the module (pickup coil?) had passed its test
pass= 500-1500 tested= 900-1100
-cap&rotor 0>6mo old
-wires 0>4mo old
-plugs plat 8mo-1yr old
-accel distributor 2 yrs old
-Ignition coil new autozone(had lifetime warranty)
Would a ignition control module be my best next move seems like from the research I've done it would be likely

Id take that icm out and take it to autozone, or advance, or orielly and have it checked. Most the time when they fail is when they get hot, so after the car warms up. Sometimes when they cool down they will start working again. I doubt its your ign switch thats not giving a full 12 volts, thats uncommon. But definitely ignition related and there are only two things that could be bad, the coil or icm or both. If your getting fuel, then thats it.

Pretty much what B-body said. One thing that will seriously cause these ICMs to fail is not putting enough lithium grease between the mounting plate of the ICM and the distributor. I've had these ICMs fail in a couple different ways, either it won't start the car at all, will sometimes start the car and cause a misfire or at high rpm it will fail. Have it thoroughly tested and if yours fails, make sure you have them test the new one before you walk out the door with it. I've had brand new ones bad right out of the box.

GM B-Body Forum wrote:Id take that icm out and take it to autozone, or advance, or orielly and have it checked. Most the time when they fail is when they get hot, so after the car warms up. Sometimes when they cool down they will start working again. I doubt its your ign switch thats not giving a full 12 volts, thats uncommon. But definitely ignition related and there are only two things that could be bad, the coil or icm or both. If your getting fuel, then thats it.

solo79 wrote:Pretty much what B-body said.  One thing that will seriously cause these ICMs to fail is not putting enough lithium grease between the mounting plate of the ICM and the distributor.  I've had these ICMs fail in a couple different ways, either it won't start the car at all, will sometimes start the car and cause a misfire or at high rpm it will fail.  Have it thoroughly tested and if yours fails, make sure you have them test the new one before you walk out the door with it.  I've had brand new ones bad right out of the box.

Yesterday had no time to work on her I had to work and wanted to try in the night but parts stores are closed, so went today got a ICM and some ring terminals because my fuselink on the starter was showing bare wire so fixed that. After pulled the old ICM , the grease had turned into a powdery paste, slapped in the new one and hit the key and she started right up! Thanks to all that put their input , I had a idea it might have been the ICM but wanted a nod of approval from someone other than myself. Damn these motors won't quit. I LOVE CHEVYS!
Also side note my O'Reillys didn't have the tester but the guy had helped me before and even gave me discount $5, so I don't think he was lying. Could have gone to AutoZone bu. their service is crap

Glad you got it going. I avoid ACCEL like the plague these days most of what they make is very badly made. I used to be be fan way back when but today they make the worst ignition products although Jacobs is right there
with them as well(bought out). Stick with GM or MSD if aftermarket. Most of those Accel ICMs are known to burn up some right out of the box.

Myloth wrote:Glad you got it going. I avoid ACCEL like the plague these days most of what they make is very badly made. I used to be be fan way back when but today they make the worst ignition products although Jacobs is right there
with them as well(bought out). Stick with GM or MSD if aftermarket. Most of those Accel ICMs are known to burn up some right out of the box.

I bought the accel 2 years ago or so its performed well but have been pondering a msd street fire hei distributor but wondered if there's a significant different. An alternative I though of was a pertronix "flamethrower" coil and module. I replaced the coil and module and she runs smooth.
I noticed I had a weak spark (could barley see spark behind my clear hei cap) but ignored it cause I'm stubborn, when she was hot its would take 2-3 cranks to turn over and I could smell a lil raw gasoline.
Now I switched the parts I clearly see spark behind the cap , which is cool to look at the sparks jumping ($30 cap/rotor summit racing)
Since I have the guts of the distributor should I just get the pertronix coil/module or stop playing and get a msd

I also dont like accel, but im using their superstock plug wires and they seem good, but ill be changing that soon to msd wires. But if i were you, just keep the distributor and replace the parts inside. Pertronix is good from what i hear, i see alot of folks buy the points and condenser to electronic ignition conversion from pertronix. Just slap in a flamethrower coil and ICM and call it a day! Msd doesnt make a hi perf 4 pin icm for the hei, only what comes with the streetfire distributor. They do have the adjustable rev limiter icm, which is cool.

Actually I have less Issue with their wires than their electronics. Most sets of Accel wires I have used new or old

were fine. But everything from coils to controllers has been junk. Used the Petronix points conversion years ago

and it worked really well haven't used them though in a long time.

I'm throwing a monkey wrench into the wire discussion. I personally only use Mallory Pro Sidewinder plug wires. A good friend of mine who is an older gentleman has had the same set of Sidewinder plug wires on his Olds 455 for a good 10 years and never a problem. I decided to try them on my 327 I built nearly 3 years ago and they are still on there and still as soft and supple as when they came out of the box. They are tough to beat for the price in my opinion.

Mallory is good I don't think I ever had wires from them though had one of those old Mallory Hyfire CDI boxes years

ago that I bought used. It worked well on several cars and I sold it at a profit :}.