79 you have seen before

Here is my new look for the cold months a bit ghetto but hey I should be able to make a panic

stop in the worst weather with studs on the front. (I'd rather be able to stop then go on ice.)

205/75/15 Goodyear studs on pair old Cragaresque 15s

225/70/15 All seasons on repainted 15" Wagon Wheels

Myloth wrote:Here is my new look for the cold months a bit  ghetto but hey I should be able to make a panic

stop in the worst weather with studs on the front. (I'd rather be able to stop then go on ice.)

205/75/15 Goodyear studs on pair old Cragaresque 15s

225/70/15 All seasons on repainted 15" Wagon Wheels

EEEEK !! I'll start setting parts aside for you to replace the front end next spring because you crashed it this winter.  
Damn, I knew I should have bought that black 77!

Seriously Bro, studded tires on the front wheels of a RWD car will cause you to crash on snow and ice.  
Studs are meant for wheels receiving power, only.

Myloth wrote:Since I'm waiting for parts I am going to start upgrading the factory Power which is in need of it I think

I have a 1700w parasitic drain coming from the trunk the only reason the lights don't wink is I bought a 1000w+

battery and 1 farad Cap. Anyhow first I am replacing the factory 4 gauge? battery wire with 2/0 wire.

Check out the difference below I think GM came up a little short although I wouldn't knock this car so much

it is a 79' what did they have for electrical drain back then. Plenty of newer cars using same stuff.




I was contemplating 4/0 then I thought I only saw that on a diesel and it was BIG

might make the routing difficult so I went to this I think it's a good call , 4/0 is a bit too large for

an easy install.

I used Bulls audio 0 gauge for my big 3 upgrade and for my amp pushing my 12" mtx 8000 thunder (t812-22) and it bumps good the alt is 140 amps ($140 summit) I am not using a capacitator or 2nd battery and the lights barleys dim on heavy long bass notes.
And I used 0 ga platinum plated connectors from sonicelectronix.com (awesome site great deals)

Sweet Seventy9 wrote:

Myloth wrote:Here is my new look for the cold months a bit  ghetto but hey I should be able to make a panic

stop in the worst weather with studs on the front. (I'd rather be able to stop then go on ice.)

205/75/15 Goodyear studs on pair old Cragaresque 15s

225/70/15 All seasons on repainted 15" Wagon Wheels

EEEEK !!   I'll start setting parts aside for you to replace the front end next spring because you crashed it this winter.  
Damn, I knew I should have bought that black 77!

Seriously Bro, studded tires on the front wheels of a RWD car will cause you to crash on snow and ice.  
Studs are meant for wheels receiving power, only.

Swap front to rear and vice versa and all is good. The overall appearance with those wheels is still going to look awful though.lol

Lol you caught me . I already planned to swap them I had to swap rear to rear 1st as I didn't have lugnuts to

switch them.Different sizes front to back because of the adapters. I actually ran studs on the front only on FWD

car and it ran great that winter but no the studs are going on the back . Sorry I was having fun taking pics. You

are correct though it's a low buck look to be sure but I just plan to drive to store or doctor etc ideally on nice

days lol. I wish I could find another pair of good winters reasonable but 15s are tough these days if wide than

195mm.

I still have the original wheel covers.  They're yours if you want them.
I have the stainless steel pieces set aside for you too.  
They're big. That's why I didnt want to ship them.

Oh ok thanks I didn't see that till now.


I have a serious question for anyone with cylinder experience.

See these pics this of the 350 I have see the scores the first one  is lengthwise down the cylinder and the

second goes around about inch from the top. Serious? Should I plan a bore or will I get away with a little blow

by? And yes you can feel them with a fingernail. The third one the horizontal looks like rust. The first and

second damn not sure it was factory flub or someone else but those two lines are nasty.











How about this double roller that slack ok or?

From what I read about this it's a high nickel content Mexican 3970010 4 bolt main 350 Target replacement

engines? And these were made a looong time ago but I guess they are rather solid block and people have built

them to over 500hp. My best bet will be to take the block to a shop having it checked then bored , decked etc

either a 355 or 383 not sure on that yet. Many claim these blocks can be bored .080 or more, if even half true

the scratches can be removed. Anybody ever have one of these?

The ring around the top is normal, since your piston never goes that far up or it shouldn't anyway or you have serious problems.  The groove down the side is not good, however sometimes a simple hone and new rings will fix that.  Sometimes when rings go bad they can dig into the side of the cylinder wall.  If honing it doesn't get it out, it will have to be bored.  You will have to hone them for sure before you put new rings in.  You also need to know what bore you have or you can mic it to get the correct rings.  If you have to bore it, you'll have to get bigger pistons and new rings.  Fun fun!!

As for the timing chain, there will be some slack, but it's difficult to tell in pictures if it's okay or not.

Well if I am going to take it apart the most I'll reuse is the block, the crank(maybe) and the rods. Everything else

I can get in a good kit to build a strong street motor. And you are right the more I look at it those scores are

looking like a crappy ring. How is a 383 on gas with a 4sp auto and say Quadrajet? My old Buick 425 with an AFB

and 2sp got 12 maybe 13 not good on the highway.Granted that was spirited driving mostly,what can I say I was

in my mid-late 20s. 'd like 14-16 on street and maybe 19-22 on the highway minimum.




I just started pulling the cam(looks good) and the pistons damn shame about that cylinder otherwise this 350 looks really

fresh, only one bearing even shows wear so far (mild). Maybe somebody rebuilt this and screwed up a ring or the

factory did. I am no expert but I have seen some worn bearings from high miles and these aren't  them.

Although I shouldn't paint too rosy a picture it should be a good rebuild .


Stripped Bare :} Damn crankshafts are heavier than I remember. Also I just measured the bore thankfully

it is a bone stock 4 inches .

Basically everything Solo said. But if your gonna put a kit in id definitely go for a 383, but if your going to keep the original crank than a 355 will do, just do the standard .30 over if those grooves arent too deep. If you have to go .60 over then youll have a 360 with the stock crank or a 388 with the 3.75 crank, either way its going to be a stout street motor, and gas mileage is all in the tune and the quench, when those are right, then mileage will be great. Keep the quadrajet or go to an edelbrock for fuel efficiency, and holley and similar carbs for more performance, the edelbrock is kind of right there in the middle of both, performance and fuel efficiency.
Ive got the same block but its newer, still made in mexico, I bought mine in 2012, and who knows how long it sat before i bought it. Im sure the metallurgy is different on the newer castings than yours.

Yes that makes lot of sense to me. I have to sit and budget it out can't get too crazy but see what works best for the

money. Either 355 or 383 will work I just want something reasonable. Maybe if I want to get crazy hp I'll buy a

Weiand Blower just for the look alone it'd be worth it

Oh my gosh don't ever use a bolt extractor in a block. Maybe some of you know that but I figure I

would post my drilling vs rotary experience .The block I bought the seller had cracked the original

water pump with an excavator(He gave me replacement). But he pressed one of the those bolts out of it's

threads and I tried to extract. Salt in the wound that's what that turned out to be. The extractor snapped and

it was stuck in the bolt. My reason for posting is if you ever get in this situation don't bother drilling waste of

time there's few if any drill bits that will go through a hardened steel extractor. I tried let's see titanium

(worthless), Cobalt( Nope) , Carbide ( A little) , Diamond tipped ( maybe if better brand these were cheap).

Now if get yourself a Carbide Bur(all of .99 off Ebay) for a rotary tool oh it cuts right through pretty much




night and day vs drilling, days vs minutes lol. I just thought I might save somebody else my agony.

oh man sounded like a load of fun!

Oh yeah lol, in fact I'm still cleaning it up right now and I still have to tap it. I don't mind though as long there is

progress. I had almost no progress drilling for several hours with high speed drill.

You know I never got around to swapping tires and man I'm glad I didn't this setup works better than you'd

think.

This car goes right through snow better than my neighbors Jeep with 4 Snows (RWD not 4wd) stops on the

dime and only slides when too much power is applied. That Posi works good in the snow hardly any slippage

at all on part throttle. At speed I haven't noticed anything odd in corners , I think the rears are pretty

good snow(Not studs though like front tires) though maybe that helps but damn this isn't one of the best RWD

car in the snow I ever drove. In fact I took to a parking just to make it slide and it really doesn't want to much.

I am not crazy about the rear defogger though as it's slow as a tortoise.

The heat works good car warms and defogs front and side but rear takes an easy 12 minutes. Is this others

experience with that blower in the rear?

It's normal. All the rear defogger does is blow the warm air against the rear window to defog it. If the air inside the car isn't warm yet, it just blows cold air and nothing happens.

What tool came up with that one? If they just installed a higher amp alternator and heavier wire they could have

added a heating coil to it say 20amp? Hmm there's an idea.....

This whole time i thought they had a heater unit built in, i didnt know it just blew air.

I thought the same but looked it up when Sweet mentioned in the past,it all seems a bit hopeful to me.

Sweet Seventy9 wrote:It's normal.  All the rear defogger does is blow the warm air against the rear window to defog it.  If the air inside the car isn't warm yet, it just blows cold air and nothing happens.

So, is there a duct that goes back there from the main box to blow the hot air like the heater or is it just a fan that recirculates the air in the car?  If the latter, I can see how that might take some time to start blowing warm air all the way back there when it's 4 below in the car. It doesn't draw the air from the trunk does it? How does that work? I've never seen one in a Caprice or Impala. I've just seen the defroster grid lines on the window.

It recirculates air from inside the car through the blower onto the window here's a pic or two.

It is sealed from the trunk that much I do know. And it only works well when the car is complete;y warmed up

which is oh about 15minutes lol. I am going to look into finding a replacement that has a heating coil for instant

gratification.

Now If I get rear ended there's no way out for the offender because if they can't see the brake lights they

shouldn't be driving anyway. Lol I added few lights to ensure such an event doesn't happen. And that

young man with the bewildered look is my son.

Looks fantastic!! Nice and bright!

Thanks the neat thing about the top one is you can't see it unless it's lit even during the day from outside the

car. Only cost me one 20 amp fuse getting it all working lol(Wrong ground) and the top one was a freebie I get a

lot of freebies as my neighbor works in a small yard they don't get too many cars but he is saving me a set of 15"

rims from a Roadmaster. Unfortunately he said the RM was a total wreck it got t-boned HARD on the front corner

& he said the LT1 was almost in the rear driver's side seat!